The Wine List - Friend or Foe?

I started Great Legs Wine Consulting because I saw a desperate need to make wine accessible, and more importantly, an enjoyable experience. I see so much pretension and snobbery associated with wine, and I'm exhausted by the endless game of one upmanship . Sadly, I find this perpetuated, more often than not, by restaurant wait staff.
One of the most common fears people share with me is the moment they are handed a wine list in a restaurant. Overwhelmed with choices, most of which they have never heard of, with over-inflated prices. I find that the fear is not so much in choosing the "right" wine, but more so about choosing the "wrong" wine. It doesn't help that the waiter gives you about 2.5 seconds with the list before coming back to the table, pen in hand, wanting to know if you've made a decision. I can tell you that I have been a guest at many a restaurant where the waiter is obviously less than impressed with my choice... and I'm a Sommelier! Herein lies the kicker... it's on their list. They are responsible for representing it, and if it's so awful as to garner a snide remark or a scornful glance, that should be their problem, and don't you forget it.
 I know of several restaurants that no longer offer White Zinfandel but instead feature a sweet Riesling by the glass. Although I don't entirely agree with this, I at least have to respect the fact that they don't want to represent a wine they don't care for. On one hand they are trying to educate and help people develop a more sophisticated palate. On the other hand, what about the little old lady who just wants a stinkin' glass of White Zin? But that leads us to the second problem facing not just wait staff, but restaurant wine buyers as well... it's not about them. This was single-handedly the most important lesson I learned form the Master Sommelier guiding me. Just because I didn't like it didn't make it a bad wine. And just because I thought something was the greatest thing since canned milk didn't mean everyone was going to share that same sentiment. Actually, anyone who knows me and my wine preferences can firmly agree that's, in fact, quite the opposite. At parties I'll catch myself asking "What do you mean you don't like the stinky, barnyardy, smells like a sweaty saddle wine?!?" or "This Pinotage is great! I just love the gamey, animal fur, almost savory component!" The point, as my Master drilled in my head, was to look for the quality and take myself out of the equation. Not easy to do, especially when the wine mantra du jour is "drink what you like". Wine professionals need to remind themselves that this statement only holds true for the guest drinking the wine.
So how do you overcome the fear associated with navigating a restaurant wine list? Short of having a Sommelier on speed dial, these tips may help:

• Don't fight it - Sometimes you have to go with the flow and drink what the buyer likes. For example, if there are 27 different Chiantis on the list, and you're in a Greek restaurant, it should be pretty clear what the buyers passion is. It may not have been your first choice, but you'll end up with a darn good bottle of Sangiovese.
• Know before you go - Many restaurants have websites with the menu and wine list uploaded. Familiarize yourself with the selections in the price point you're comfortable with. If a website isn't available, call the restaurant ahead of time and have a current list faxed to you. This can be invaluable  if you are hosting a business dinner and don't want to be put on the spot.
• Beware of the value pitfalls - Wines served by the glass and "house wines" are often of the poorest quality and carry the highest mark-up. Restaurants with integrity will choose wines by the glass that are beautiful examples of quality and value, but alas these are few and far in between.
• If it grows together, it goes together - Consider the restaurant you're in and order accordingly. In an Italian restaurant, have a Rosso di Montalcino. French cuisine on the itinerary? Look for a Cotes du Rhone or Langudoc. This also makes food and wine pairing a no-brainer.
• When in Rome - Just like you should consider the nationality of the restaurant, also consider the style and genre. Don't order a Sauvignon Blanc in a steakhouse or a California Cabernet in a seafood joint.
• ABC - Otherwise known in the wine world as "Anything but Chardonnay/Cabernet." There's a whole world of wine out there just waiting to be discovered. Some of the best wines out there are from Spain (like a Tempranillo from La Rioja) and Argentina (the Malbec grape is perfect with beef!).

One other tip I should mention that tends to be the pet peeve of many servers is the antiquated procedure of handing you the cork once its pulled. Please don't smell it. Don't roll it around, squeeze it, or put it to your ear. I assure you the cork is going to tell you nothing about the quality of the wine. In fact, I have pulled the cork on several bottles only to find it completely saturated, or conversely, completely dried out. On numerous occasions, I have not only been pleasantly surprised, but blown away at how delicious it tasted. Had I relied on just looking at the cork, I would have missed out on bliss. Proof is always in the pudding.

Cheers!