Thursday, June 24, 2010

Corked or Screwed?

You could say I'm a fairly passionate person. One could also argue that when it comes to wine that's the understatement of the year. So when I 'm asked by a budding wine enthusiast a question shrouded in much debate, I don't hesitate to jump on my soap box.
"Isn't it just cheap wine that comes in screw cap bottles?" "Doesn't good wine need to have a cork?"
Both are very valid questions indeed. Especially given that we Americans are the ones that have perpetuated these myths for eons.
I can answer the first question like this: Just because Two Buck Chuck comes in a bottle with a cork doesn't mean its a great wine. Conversely, if Two Buck Chuck were to come in a bottle with a screw cap that wouldn't make it any worse than it already is. 
I was once asked a long time ago at one of my tastings "Katie, what do you think, cork or screw cap?" My response was easy. Screw cap. Without hesitation, without looking back, I'm all for the screw cap. I'd go so far as to say that if I never saw another cork again I'd be the happiest little Sommelier you've ever seen. You see, corks are a faulty, inferior product. They have a failure rate of around 10% (that's on average due to the fact you'll hear every number from 2% - 18%). Anyway you slice it, they are unpredictable to say the least. I take personal offense to corks given that its my name on the line and my success depends on their perfection. I put it into perspective like this: Let's say you come to me looking for a suggestion on the newest, hippest, hottest new wine. I gladly offer up a recommendation for a wine that is knock-your-socks-off good. You get home with said bottle, dinner cooking away on the stove, friends en route, when you pull the cork and "pee-eww." This is one stinky bottle of vino. You've never had this wine before so you're not sure what it's supposed to taste like, but you are pretty sure the stinky socks should come off before they stomp the grapes. So now what? If you'll pardon the pun... you're screwed. And for that matter so am I. Chances are you'll never take another recommendation from me.  If I think that was a great bottle of wine clearly you and I have very different opinions on what good wine is. In addition, it's pretty safe to say you'll never buy a bottle of wine from that producer again. You obviously don't like his "style". So there you have it. I've lost your confidence and your business, the winemaker has lost you as a buyer and you're dehydrating with nothing to drink with your dinner. Everybody loses.

Here lies the beauty of screw cap. I know what's in that bottle is going to taste the way it should 100% of the time and if you don't like it, you don't like it for the right reasons. Not because you got that 1 fooshy bottle.
Now, on the other hand, I can sympathize with people afraid of this movement. There is a certain loss of pomp and circumstance when a waiter comes to your table and "cracks open" your bottle of vino. But remember, it's what's IN the bottle that's most important.
If it makes you feel any better I'm certain that if Stelvin closures (the fancy schmancy name for screw caps) existed hundreds of years ago we'd be twisting open our Lafite's and Romanee's.
Now go on, get out there. Throw caution to the wind, and your wine openers in the garbage!

In good health.

1 comment:

  1. Hi Katie, I like your blog. Great idea! And great way to build visibility for your business. (Spoken like the PR maven that I am!).
    Glad to see you have found a career you enjoy.
    - Saskia

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